In the meantime I’ve also built an Iron Man Mark IV mask and some Minecraft stuff with my eldest daughter 🙂
Category: Making stuff (Page 1 of 2)
One of the events on the agenda at the moment is the 2015 Dutch Comic Con in Utrecht. In going over some cosplay ideas for me and my brother I was looking at some YouTube build videos on helmets. The series I found particularly interesting was Boochieboys‘ Iron Man helmet build. Not that I’m going to be building anything near an Iron Man costume, but the build method peaked my interest.
This weekend I continued work on the legs for my little R2 unit. As was very noticeable in one of my previous posts, my woodworking skills aren’t really up to snuff yet 🙂 The cut out legs were a little rough around the edges.
I picked up some polyester body filler (mainly used in car body repair) and filled, and sanded, and filled, and sanded, and filled, and sanded every part three times till I got a nice smooth finish. I then primed the parts with a spray-on primer (the same I used for the dome panels).
And voila, here is the result after a single coat of primer. I will be doing some more smoothing and priming it again before the paint can go on though. With the main structure of the legs all done, I can move on the all the tiny details that go on the legs now, as can be seen in an even earlier post of my 3D drawings.
Today I took out my scroll saw and started work on the legs. I wanted to make them out of a material that would support the R2, so instead of making them out of plastic or some faux wood, I made the from solid MDF. So I cut out the first parts out of 18mm and 12mm board. Granted, they are still in rough shape, but the basic form is done. Next I’ll be patching them up and smoothing them out with some polyester body filling, or Bondo.
As the R2-D2 project is quite a substantial one, I’ve also been thinking about some smaller projects I would like to pick up eventually. Here are the smaller props that I’m thinking of right now. Please leave me some suggestions if you have any cool ideas for smaller projects in the comments below.
The Ghostbusters Ghost Trap
A Skyrim/LOTR/other Shield
Aaaaaaaall Kinds of Helmets
Like Iron Man, a Batcowl, medieval armor, and the list goes on 🙂
It’s been a while since the last update, but with good reason. Over the last couple of weeks I’ve been working out my little R2 as a 3D model to get a grip on all of the dimensions and individual parts involved. The first pieces I will be working on next on the build itself are the legs. For now a couple of screenshots of the legs will have to do though 🙂
I’ve used Sketchup as my 3D modeling tool of choice. It isn’t a very accurate 3D modeler, but for architectural designs and models it’s a wonderfully fast tool. And best of all, it’s free! By using the 3D model I can easily get all the measurements I need on three axes in stead of two from a regular old blueprint. It also helps me comparing it to the reference photos I have to get as close as I can to the real thing.
Also I have adjusted the measurements slightly to fit the standard MDF board thicknesses I’ll be using later on.
For now, here are some screenshots of the legs:
After grinding and straightening out the panels, the time to paint them has arrived. I went to the local hardware store and bought some primer and a nice shade of dark blue paint. I did get a solid primer, because I did not want to run the risk of the paint coming off at the seems after a few weeks. The two paint cans set me back about 17 euros, but I’ll be able to use them for all the blue elements on the R2 later on.
I sanded and primed the panels, left it out to dry for 24 hours, and then applied the first layer of paint. After that had dried for another 24 hours I put on the final coat. Don’t forget to sand in between paint jobs, kids!
As you can see in the pictures the metal dome itself still has some rough edges, but I’ll smooth them out later. For now I’ve just put the panels in place with some electrical tape. This will come in handy later because I will have to remove them for the other holes I still have to make. I haven’t decided how to permanently fix them yet. Right now I’m still trying to figure out if I’ll make them moveable or to just affix them in place permanently.
After measuring out all the panels on the bottom half of the artoo dome, it was time to start cutting them out. You can do this with a small hacksaw, but fortunately I have a nice handheld multitool with some cutting blades.
Cutting metal with any type of powered device will generate a lot of heat. To avoid discoloration of the metal your cutting, be sure to keep it well lubricated with some WD40. The downside to this is it will create a big mess on your workbench, so be sure to cover it with some newspaper or cloth that you can toss out afterwards. Also, if you’re doing this, be sure to wear a facemask or respirator and some goggles. The metal dust is very fine and you don’t want that stuff in your airways and eyes.
I couldn’t find any nice blueprints anywhere, but then again, having a very detailed blueprint would take all the fun out of the painstaking task of measuring out the different parts of my little droid. I went back to the astromech website to collect some good reference material on the dome itself.
Artoo’s dome is riddled with little panels, mostly blue. The first thing to decide is wether you want to just spray on the panels in paint, or if you actually want to do something with them. I chose to cut out all the panels, first of all because of the aesthetics of it, but also because I might want to do something movable with them later on.
As you might imagine I wanted to start with the most iconic piece of artoo, the dome. You can get pre-laser-cut aluminium domes on the Internet, or via some of the limited runs that the guys over at the astromech website do. But buying a $500 dome isn’t really being true to the ‘on a budget’ philosophy 🙂
First of, being on a budget means that the artoo will not be movie-accurate. I want to be as accurate as I can, but not at any cost. And besides being on a budget, I’d also like to make this not be a 10 year project.